I spent an incredible long lunch at 98 Lygon Street recently — one of those afternoons where time slips by over good food, drinks, and conversation. The menu encourages lingering, the drinks arrive in thoughtful waves, and the room makes it easy to settle in.
I spoke with owner Ben Clark about how he approaches food, drinks, and creating a space where guests are invited to stay awhile. With the summer courtyard now open and the menu refined for warmer months, 98 Lygon Street continues to be a standout in Brunswick East.
When people sit down here, what do you want the first round to look like; a drink, a plate, or both?
The first round we want to be aperitif-esque, think champagne, martini, our house cocktail. The first round is there to help you relax, take a breath and settle into your experience at 98.
The food really lends itself to staying a while. Is the menu designed with that slower pace in mind?
Absolutely. Everything we do and think about at 98 is about delivering an experience where each moment is savoured and should be enjoyed over hours not rushed.
Are there dishes that work especially well when people are ordering across the table?
The menu is influenced by the traditional old world bistro/brasserie of menu with entrees, mains and sides designed to deliver a substantial meal for each person. We do offer indulgent feasting options for groups in our private dining room.
What are the go-to cocktails right now; the ones you see ordered again and again?
From the current house list crowd favourites include La Renaissance made with vodka, strawberry, lemon and a splash of Aperol – drinks like a fluffy strawberry cloud! Other than that, dirty martinis for days! It’s definitely a top drink in Melbourne at the moment.
If you had to pick one cocktail that really sums up 98 Lygon St, which would it be?
Probably the Pink Velvet – a martini riff with notes of anise, it’s smooth and elegant and a little cheeky just like us.
The wine list leans lighter and more drinkable. What are some highlights people should look out for at the moment?
Our wine list gets refreshed seasonally, with the warmer months we’ve leaned into those lighter s. Drinking will is the Dragon by Luigi Baudana, an Italian field blend, and local winemaker Honky Chateau’s Parallel pinot noir. Alongside this, our bottle offering focuses on lighter, fresher more vibrant old world varietals from Europe.
There’s a strong European feel without it being literal. How do you keep that influence relaxed rather than d?
We’re able to balance our many years of experience working and living throughout Europe whilst still being connected to our local environment of Brunswick East which allows us to casually and confidently deliver on the brand ethos of 98.
If someone came in and said, “We’re not in a rush,” what would you suggest they order and drink?
This is our ideal scenario. We would take you on a journey through our food and drink that would probably last a good few hours and provide you with the best expression of 98 Lygon St.
